Sudhgad - an impressive fort in Raigad district about 135~ kms from Pune. It is very beautiful both as a natural odyssey and as a architectural masterpiece. And the best part is it is not well known compared to other forts like Raigad, Sinhagad, Rajgad, etc. which makes it very less crowded and more thrilling.
We did our trek on 7 June. There were 2 of us myself and Gaurav Malthankar (malthya - the regular - by default trek mate). We started early in morning from Pune roaring on the Bullet 350cc (another old trek mate). We took the Mumbai Pune old highway route to first reach Khopoli then took right to Pali about 40 kms from here. Pali is home to one of the eight Ashtavinayaks and fort Sarasgad. We took darshan in the temple and planned to trek Sarasgad after Sudhagad if time permitted. Base village to Sudhagad is Thakurwadi or Pachapur, around 10 kms from Pali. All along the way there were rice fields being readied for sowing and other activities before the onslaught of Monsoons. Raigad stands to its name as the `Rice Granary of Maharashtra`, although farms now face the threat of heavy urbaniation and industrialisation.
Breakfast is recommended in Pali itself as there aren't much hotels in the base village. Thakurwadi is a beautiful tribal (thakars) village on rolling slopes with typical Adivasi traditional elements reflecting in farming to architecture, dressing and language. This clean village, not much touched by modernization, will in itself make for a wonderful trip. The houses were made of wood and grass; thatched on the outside and over roof with mud and cowdung to protect from the heavy rains there. The villagers were helpful by nature.
We started our trek at 9:30 am in morning and within few mins we had to stop due to humidity attack. It was June already but there was no sign of rains. This is the disadvantage of trekking from Konkan side compared to Pune region : in Konkan there is high humidity while the Pune side is cooler. One should carry lots of water as there is only one drinking water source on the fort and that too on a far end. The route is beautiful and mostly gentle. However there are two iron ladders on the way which are safe but the shaking raillings induces fear.
Dry trees make a good photograph. One such tree enroute.
Makes a good mobile wallpaper.
Finally after about half hour of trek we reached the main entrance from this side of fort. It was Awesome!!!! Flights and flights of steps carved in rocks in between a huge gap on the mountain slope. And the whole staircase on the top is guarded by two very big made-in-stone buruj (bastions). A walk on this steps recharged our batteries. When we reached the top of this gap we went towards the right hand side buruj from where the whole path can be watched and the staircase could be attacked with weapons like cannons, arrows, spears, stones, etc. There was a surprise awaiting us : a secret tunnel leading us to another small buruj within the buruj itself. The tunnel is very narrow full of strange black coloured lizards and one has to crawl on floor while entering it. This a place which couldn't be seen from outside but the whole approach is visible from here.
It takes around one hour to reach the top from here. Along the way is another huge bastion with the Bhagwa waving with pride on its top in the background of the Azure blue sky.
Sudhagad History : It is very old fort - more than 2 thousand years; contemporary of the Thanale and Kadsamble caves in the same region. Later on it went in hands of the Bahmani sultans. And then later on to Our King Shivaji Maharaj. He even thought of making it as capital of the Kingdom (but choose Raigad instead). This itself is testimony to the strength of the fort! Then later on it went in hands of the Pant Sachivs of Bhor a small princely state during British times. This saved it from British destruction. And so it is comparatively well preserved fort today.
Once we reach top there are very large ruins scattered everywhere. Ruins of once tall buildings now existing only up to plinth level. This remains are very large in number. May be it was populated in historic times with considerable settlement. Maybe it was a huge bustling town or a marketplace or a military camp (my assumptions).
A Lake on the fort
As we proceed further there is a lake on the way where the thakars were catching crabs and fish in shallow waters with clothes submerged so they can be lifted when crabs are trapped inside.
We asked for the Bhorai Devi temple. Along the way there is huge Pant Sachiv's wada but now in deserted condition. The bhoraidevi temple is mysterious inside the gabhara. The temple has a clean well maintained mandap in the front which can accommodate many people and can be a resting place in night treks. We had a short nap there. The view in front of the temple is astonishingly beautiful with high mountains and deep forested valleys. Among the mountains there are Ghangad and Korigad forts. But we could identify Taila-Baila only - the huge rock wall partitioned in two in between - taila and baila. On the right side of the temple are three huge granaries made of stone.
There is a small Shiva temple in the trees here (bhoreshwar temple).
As we proceed further towards the Mahadarwaja many surprises awaited us. There is very huge Tatbandi (citadel walls) on the way with height fourty feets at some places and width ten feets with a walkway on the top. The walkway winds up and down on hills and has very big steps on it which raised some questions in my mind - were the ancients really that well built or it just that the stairs are high??
The story doesn't end here! There is chor darwaza - a secret escape route on this tatbandi. A very small tunnel leading to the escape way. And the door carved at base of heavy stone wall some fourth feet high!!! We just bowed to the Ancients!!!
Chor darwaza with hole at bottom to drain water.
We proceeded towards the Mahadarwaza - the main entrance from the Dindoshi side. The darwaza is said to be replica of Raigad Mahadarwaza. The door is another must see place after the chor darwaza. It is inside a very wide and tall open cut carved in mountain. The open cut is made curved so that door is not visible and it will slow down approaching enemy. The door is in centre of the cut. It is very big and beautifully carved. Sahyadri never stops surprising!!
Mahadarwaza
The route from this Mahadarwaza that is Dindoshi side is amongst deep forests similar to Vasota fort trek. I will suggest this route to avid trekkers wanting a thrilling experience of walking through dense forest where even the sunlight doesn't reach. However amateur and/or lazy trekkers should prefer the thakarwadi route.
Dense forest on the Dindoshi route
From Mahadarwaja we started our return journey. We missed takmak tok point from where there is straight fall similar to Raigad. On our way back black clouds started gathering in the eastern skies as if an army attacking and we could see rains lashing the lazy villages below. It was very beautiful sight. Soon the clouds striked the fort and we were drenched in water. A much respite from the hot and humid climate. It was our own kale kale megha moment from Lagaan. Haha.
Clouds coming towards us like an attacking army!
Nearer!
Views after rains lashed the mountains
We started our journey back home. Skipped Sarasgad as it was 6 pm already and we had to reach Pune.
A very rewarding journey. Sudhagad never stopped from surprising us. Majestic Sudhagad!!
We did our trek on 7 June. There were 2 of us myself and Gaurav Malthankar (malthya - the regular - by default trek mate). We started early in morning from Pune roaring on the Bullet 350cc (another old trek mate). We took the Mumbai Pune old highway route to first reach Khopoli then took right to Pali about 40 kms from here. Pali is home to one of the eight Ashtavinayaks and fort Sarasgad. We took darshan in the temple and planned to trek Sarasgad after Sudhagad if time permitted. Base village to Sudhagad is Thakurwadi or Pachapur, around 10 kms from Pali. All along the way there were rice fields being readied for sowing and other activities before the onslaught of Monsoons. Raigad stands to its name as the `Rice Granary of Maharashtra`, although farms now face the threat of heavy urbaniation and industrialisation.
Breakfast is recommended in Pali itself as there aren't much hotels in the base village. Thakurwadi is a beautiful tribal (thakars) village on rolling slopes with typical Adivasi traditional elements reflecting in farming to architecture, dressing and language. This clean village, not much touched by modernization, will in itself make for a wonderful trip. The houses were made of wood and grass; thatched on the outside and over roof with mud and cowdung to protect from the heavy rains there. The villagers were helpful by nature.
We started our trek at 9:30 am in morning and within few mins we had to stop due to humidity attack. It was June already but there was no sign of rains. This is the disadvantage of trekking from Konkan side compared to Pune region : in Konkan there is high humidity while the Pune side is cooler. One should carry lots of water as there is only one drinking water source on the fort and that too on a far end. The route is beautiful and mostly gentle. However there are two iron ladders on the way which are safe but the shaking raillings induces fear.
Makes a good mobile wallpaper.
Finally after about half hour of trek we reached the main entrance from this side of fort. It was Awesome!!!! Flights and flights of steps carved in rocks in between a huge gap on the mountain slope. And the whole staircase on the top is guarded by two very big made-in-stone buruj (bastions). A walk on this steps recharged our batteries. When we reached the top of this gap we went towards the right hand side buruj from where the whole path can be watched and the staircase could be attacked with weapons like cannons, arrows, spears, stones, etc. There was a surprise awaiting us : a secret tunnel leading us to another small buruj within the buruj itself. The tunnel is very narrow full of strange black coloured lizards and one has to crawl on floor while entering it. This a place which couldn't be seen from outside but the whole approach is visible from here.
The huge staircase!
It takes around one hour to reach the top from here. Along the way is another huge bastion with the Bhagwa waving with pride on its top in the background of the Azure blue sky.
Sudhagad History : It is very old fort - more than 2 thousand years; contemporary of the Thanale and Kadsamble caves in the same region. Later on it went in hands of the Bahmani sultans. And then later on to Our King Shivaji Maharaj. He even thought of making it as capital of the Kingdom (but choose Raigad instead). This itself is testimony to the strength of the fort! Then later on it went in hands of the Pant Sachivs of Bhor a small princely state during British times. This saved it from British destruction. And so it is comparatively well preserved fort today.
Once we reach top there are very large ruins scattered everywhere. Ruins of once tall buildings now existing only up to plinth level. This remains are very large in number. May be it was populated in historic times with considerable settlement. Maybe it was a huge bustling town or a marketplace or a military camp (my assumptions).
As we proceed further there is a lake on the way where the thakars were catching crabs and fish in shallow waters with clothes submerged so they can be lifted when crabs are trapped inside.
We asked for the Bhorai Devi temple. Along the way there is huge Pant Sachiv's wada but now in deserted condition. The bhoraidevi temple is mysterious inside the gabhara. The temple has a clean well maintained mandap in the front which can accommodate many people and can be a resting place in night treks. We had a short nap there. The view in front of the temple is astonishingly beautiful with high mountains and deep forested valleys. Among the mountains there are Ghangad and Korigad forts. But we could identify Taila-Baila only - the huge rock wall partitioned in two in between - taila and baila. On the right side of the temple are three huge granaries made of stone.
Bhoraidevi Temple
As we proceed further towards the Mahadarwaja many surprises awaited us. There is very huge Tatbandi (citadel walls) on the way with height fourty feets at some places and width ten feets with a walkway on the top. The walkway winds up and down on hills and has very big steps on it which raised some questions in my mind - were the ancients really that well built or it just that the stairs are high??
The story doesn't end here! There is chor darwaza - a secret escape route on this tatbandi. A very small tunnel leading to the escape way. And the door carved at base of heavy stone wall some fourth feet high!!! We just bowed to the Ancients!!!
A photo of me in front of the chor darwaza just to appreciate its Grandeur.
We proceeded towards the Mahadarwaza - the main entrance from the Dindoshi side. The darwaza is said to be replica of Raigad Mahadarwaza. The door is another must see place after the chor darwaza. It is inside a very wide and tall open cut carved in mountain. The open cut is made curved so that door is not visible and it will slow down approaching enemy. The door is in centre of the cut. It is very big and beautifully carved. Sahyadri never stops surprising!!
The route from this Mahadarwaza that is Dindoshi side is amongst deep forests similar to Vasota fort trek. I will suggest this route to avid trekkers wanting a thrilling experience of walking through dense forest where even the sunlight doesn't reach. However amateur and/or lazy trekkers should prefer the thakarwadi route.
From Mahadarwaja we started our return journey. We missed takmak tok point from where there is straight fall similar to Raigad. On our way back black clouds started gathering in the eastern skies as if an army attacking and we could see rains lashing the lazy villages below. It was very beautiful sight. Soon the clouds striked the fort and we were drenched in water. A much respite from the hot and humid climate. It was our own kale kale megha moment from Lagaan. Haha.
Deep gorges!
The rice terraces below were filled with water. The fields appear as if giant mirrors reflecting the sky above.
A very rewarding journey. Sudhagad never stopped from surprising us. Majestic Sudhagad!!
